As I sit down here to begin this piece, a faithful companion resides beside me, namely, a glass of well made and not too expensive, red burgundy. More specifically, it’s a glass of St. Aubin Premier Cru from the terrific 2005 vintage, fairly priced at about 20 euros. It has a good depth of fruit, is reasonably complex and is well-balanced in terms of alcohol, acidity and tannin.
But could this wine taste better, I wonder? Perhaps in the company of food? After all, isn’t that the true position of wine, to partner food? Actually, I no longer wonder about this question as I’ve spent enough time with it. The conclusion that I’ve reached is that ‘Good wine doesn’t get better with the ‘Right’ Food’. The ’Right Food’ for good wine is ‘No Food’. Of course, if the wine being consumed is not particularly good, and by this I mean lacking something essential character (or too much of another), then to partner it with food is probably the kindest thing to be done, other than not drinking it at all, that is.
I’ve often had the taste of good food improve due to being had with good wine but, with only one or two exceptions, I feel the reverse is not the case. To do justice to good wine, drink it by itself. Slowly.
For those that think otherwise I ask, what is missing from the wine that is supplied by the food. Having asked this questions of others in the past, the most common answer I receive is that the effect of the tannin element in red wines is lessened by the food. This is true. Chemically, tannin molecules from wine bond with the protein molecules in food and thereby reduce the sensation in the wine. For those who have a problem with sensing tannin in wine, perhaps food matching is the answer. For me, in general, I don’t find a bit of tannin sticking out of the wine to be a negative aspect. The flavours of the wine are what is important.
Having wine with food is like watching television while having sex. Both pastimes suffer from giving neither your full attention. You must ask yourself; “What is missing from one that I must suppliment it by adding the other element?” As far as good wine is concerned, it must be able to stand alone or else it’s not ‘good’ enough!
For instance, how do you enjoy a mature, quality red bordeaux wine when it’s in the process of being assaulted by a mouthful of prime fillet in your mouth? The taste of the beef may well be improved by the wine but how could the complex wine flavours be improved?
However, there are certain classic food matches for wine such as: Goat’s cheese (especially Crottin de Chavignon) with Sancerre, pork with Fleurie, Roquefort cheese with Sauternes or even Foie Gras (wonderfully politically incorrect) with Sauternes.
Perhaps most suitably, Doner Kebab (with all the sauces available) with inexpensive Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon where the strong garlic sauce and melted fat from the kebab neutralise the equally powerful, shoe polish esters of the wine. I have to admit right now, that I have never tried this combination and as there is a limit to the extent that I am prepared to suffer, I shall have to remain satisfied that the theory works here.
The reason that these combinations (with the exception of the latter example) work so well is because a range of ‘new’ flavours have been created by the ‘marriage’. The wine isn’t tasted on its own, nor is the food. What has happened is that a hybrid range of flavours has been created (which I rarely think of as an improvement) and so, diners think of this as an improvement. It is simple: if I want a glass of wine then I’m predisposed to the taste of (good) wine not food, if I’m hungry then I looking for food.Life isn’t possible without wine. At least, not for me.
I think that the idea of having food with wine has really developed out the necessity of having some sort of drink with a meal. Water being too insubstantial, beer being too unsophisticated what’s left is only wine seems to fit the bill. More often than not, as far as good wine concerned, justice isn’t done. My advice is to choose your wine carefully and drink it before your meal and afterwards. During the meal, try drinking water at room temperature.
